Two years ago, we decided to take a day trip to the North Shore. I had applied for a position with MNHS and with that organization on my mind, I wanted to see one of the historic sites that’s not in the Twin Cities – and it was a good excuse to add two stamps to our state parks passport. (And to visit Betty’s Pies on the way.)
Construction of Split Rock began in 1907 after several deadly shipwrecks on Lake Superior, including a late November 1905 storm that killed dozens and damaged or destroyed more than 20 ships. This map shows 29 wrecks.
The lighthouse itself is closed during the winter, so we didn’t get to climb up to the beacon, but we were able to get up-close outside…
…and to see a beautiful, sunny view of Lake Superior.
We left the lighthouse and started off on a very cold hike through the park.
Being January, the rocks were frozen and snow-covered, although the lake wasn’t iced over.
And then we were treated to a gorgeous view of the lighthouse and the lake.
I was enchanted by this island to the south, with a pastel sky in the background as the sun went down.
Now, switching back to the first park of the day, Gooseberry Falls, which was completely frozen over.
A view from the top of the falls, looking down:
The Highway 61 bridge over the Gooseberry River:
Ice climbers:
We didn’t stay long at this park, pretty as it was, because we wanted to leave plenty of time for Split Rock. Since then we stopped here once again but only as an afterthought and only for a quick hike out to see the unfrozen falls. Soon, we need to plan a real visit and explore the rest of this popular park.
I love road trips in December because of the vintage Christmas decorations in small-town Minnesota. This year I took two trips just to see the lights – the first heading west along Highway 12 to Dassel, then north to 55 back to the Twin Cities (though it was too dark for pictures for the journey back), and the second south on 35 to Owatonna, back to Faribault, and then west to Waterville and New Prague. These were my favorites from the adventures (along with a couple extra photos from shorter trips).
My new favorite scene is in Montgomery, a city that celebrates its Czech heritage. These 3-D Christmas trees are paired with a blue banner that says “Peace” and “Joy” in both English and Czech.
The town also has two other styles:
Its neighbor, Lonsdale, has many design variations on the Season’s Greetings lights.
Antique street lights share a pole with the regular city spirit banners in Delano:
Owatonna’s Central Park has trees in each corner, including a picturesque spot across from the historic National Farmers’ Bank:
Snowflakes in Northfield:
Simple wreaths in North St. Paul:
New Prague has candle wreaths like many other towns, and this jeweler added its own tree:
Grocery stores are painting their windows in New Prague…
…and Farmington:
Garland crossing the intersections in Cannon Falls:
Cannon Falls also has wreaths on its lampposts – an effect that is somewhat muppet-like when viewed up close:
Snowflakes on lampposts that look like candles in Faribault:
This was the second time I drove through Morristown and Waterville, and I have a hard time keeping their names straight. I can remember the “Morris” and “Water” but never remember which is a town and which is a ville, so I usually end up saying Morrisville and Watertown. I reached these two just as the last light was fading, and the snowflakes were blinking on in Morristown:
Shooting stars in Waterville:
Skinny wire in Medford:
A variety in Rockford, including curly trees I haven’t seen anywhere else:
Darwin had the most shapes of one style of decoration – in this case, white wire.
Waverly has two styles, the white-wire along Highway 12…
…and “tinsel” style on Main Street.
Montrose wins my Most Variety Award for 2015. Many different banners and tinsel shapes along Highway 12, snowflakes on the south side of County Road 12…
…and my second-favorite of the season, these ornate vintage street lights on the north side of County 12.
Grand Marais has been high on my list of Minnesota places to visit for years, and with a birthday to celebrate, we headed there the first weekend of October. Even before we went, I was sure we’d need to plan a weeklong vacation for next summer because there were more restaurants than there were meal opportunities!
Since we took a long time driving to “America’s coolest small town,” the sun was already starting to set when we reached Grand Marais. Immediately went to the public access park to get our first up-close look at Lake Superior:
Then we turned around and took a short walk down “Main Street” – actually, Wisconsin Street – for dinner at Sven & Ole’s. Their menu isn’t posted on their website, and though you order at a counter, there isn’t a menu board on the wall, so we didn’t know the options. I was nervous that we’d be on the spot with a long line behind us, but both the man taking the order and the people who were waiting were very patient. We settled on the “shicken and vild rice” pizza, which was good – though I didn’t really notice the wild rice. It wasn’t very crowded for a Friday night, though the counter was always busy, often with people who were taking their pizzas to go.
We then explored the area in the dark, planning what to visit the next day, and reached Pie Place as they were closing; we were able to buy two slices to go. The pie was good and it wasn’t cheap.
We stayed at one of the cabins that are part of the MacArthur House B&B – two bedrooms, living room, and furnished kitchen, a great setup for a long stay (though this time we only stayed two nights).
Saturday morning we noticed the county courthouse, nestled in the neighborhood kitty-corner from the cabins.
Our first breakfast of the weekend was at Blue Water Cafe. It was busy but organized: just when one table would empty, a new group would arrive to take their place, though I never saw anyone waiting. Bill had the fishcake special, which turned out to be a fish-infused pancake, complete with tartar sauce on the side. I enjoyed the “Welcome (Canadian) Neighbours” signs in this restaurant and lots of other places in town, and I really liked the Lake Superior mural on the mall.
Since we were just blocks from the lake, we walked out again to take a look at the big waves. Friday and Saturday were very windy.
And later we enjoyed a mid-morning snack at World’s Best Donuts – a chocolate glazed donut, a cinnamon sugar donut (I photographed it with the lake in the background, which is apparently the thing to do these days), and a “skizzle” (basically an elephant ear) to save for the next day. They really might be the world’s best.
Then it was time for a walk across the breakwater to the lighthouse…
I was enjoying watching and filming the big waves at Artists’ Point when one surprised me:
With all the wind, it didn’t take long to dry off as we walked back to go through the shops downtown…
…including a stop at the famous Joynes Ben Franklin: cribbage boards and other knick-knacks, Gunflint Trail scrapbooking supplies, a wire bookshelf with local and Minnesota books. Good thing we went on Saturday, because we found out the next day that they’re closed Sundays.
There were many outdoor paintings around town, like this one of the America, which sank in Lake Superior in 1928, by Lyle Sathre:
I was intrigued by this blacksmith shop, which we later learned opened in 1911, was owned by three generations of Ballys, and is on the National Register of Historic Places. It’s now owned by the Cook County Historical Society, which is in the process of preserving and redeveloping the building and grounds with help of a fundraising campaign and a legacy grant from the Minnesota Historical Society.
In the afternoon we headed north on 61 to Naniboujou Lodge for a late lunch, then a hike to the Devil’s Kettle waterfall at Judge Magney State Park (more about the park in a future post).
After a short rest back at the cabin, we decided to walk down the few blocks to the Angry Trout for dinner. I thought that even though it was a Saturday, it probably wouldn’t be too busy because it was so late in the year – but I was wrong. Harbor Grill across the street had a long line, too, so we headed back to grab the car and venture out, and we ended up at My Sister’s Place on the north end of town. There was a line there, too, but we waited for only about 15 minutes.
We were tired after our long Saturday adventure, so we slept in the next morning and had a late breakfast at South of the Border Cafe, with its charming menus. (Apparently some online reviewers are confused about which border they’re referring to. Grand Marais is only about 50 miles from the Canadian border – so it’s not Mexican food but diner food, cheap.)
The wind was much calmer on Sunday. We took one more trip to the lake, where I collected a few rocks and watched (and listened to) the waves pulling rocks back into the water:
One more walk through town, and we stumbled across an art exhibit showcasing works from the plein air festival at the Johnson Heritage Post art gallery.
Early afternoon on Sunday was a much easier time to get into Angry Trout Cafe – no waiting.
As we were leaving, we picked up smoked trout to go at Dockside Fish Market next door.
Though our vacation was coming to an end, we weren’t quite ready to leave yet, so we spontaneously started driving the Gunflint Trail…
…and stopped at the scenic overlook.
And then it was time to head back to the Cities. Here’s my favorite picture of the weekend, showing the lake and the town and the hill.
The first weekend in October we took a road trip to Grand Marais. It’s just over four hours by car, though that assumes no stops (which is never a safe assumption with me in the car). Here are some of the things we saw on the drive.
We were delayed briefly in road construction on 35 near Hinckley, so we enjoyed the colorful trees.
Lunch in Duluth, with a quick glimpse at the lift bridge as we sped past.
On the north end of Duluth, we got our first clear look at Lake Superior.
We took the Highway 61 expressway to Two Harbors rather than the scenic drive along the shore. Of course we had to take one brief turn off the highway to see Pierre the Voyageur. He used to be at the Voyageur Motel in Two Harbors, but now he’s a greeter just before you reach the town. He looks like he has no pants, although his new owners have said he’s wearing tights. (I didn’t get close enough to verify.)
A sign of autumn: pumpkins for sale in Two Harbors.
The tunnel that’s a familiar milestone to everyone heading north on Highway 61.
My in-motion photo of the brief glimpse of Split Rock Lighthouse from 61 was so blurry that I deleted it. We then made a spontaneous stop at Gooseberry State Park for a short hike out to the falls. The rest area at Gooseberry is one of the few locations in Minnesota state parks where a parking permit is not necessary (though we have one anyway). It was late afternoon on Friday and the parking lot was packed; cars were even circling to grab a space when others were leaving. I bet it was even busier the next day.
Finally entering Cook County!
We’d been advised that a tram ride at Lutsen Mountains is always fun but essentially required in autumn – and we were lucky enough to hit a peak weekend for fall color. We were there in late afternoon with the sun just starting to set behind the mountain…
…but looking the other direction, a gorgeous autumn view!
The charming trams, whose days are numbered…
…because a new tram system is about to be launched.
A view of Lake Superior in the distance on the way back down the mountain.
Our tram’s shadow in the orange trees.
The second day we were in Grand Marais, we ventured north to Naniboujou Lodge for a late lunch. I had a ridiculously delicious turkey club sandwich with cranberry and mustard, which seems like a strange combination but worked. I also had their famous french onion soup and burned my mouth because I couldn’t wait until it cooled.
Everyone takes pictures of the ceiling inside the lodge’s restaurant, and it’s easy to see why.
Of course we also visited the state park (Magney) that’s across the street from the lodge. More about that will be in a future post. (So will Grand Marais itself.)
We stopped at a public beach in Colvill on the way back to Grand Marais. I was mesmerized by the Lake Superior’s giant waves all weekend.
On the way back to the Cities on Sunday afternoon, we made a quick detour in Silver Bay to see Rocky Taconite.
A short stop in Two Harbors to see the grand Lake County courthouse. We had stumbled across it on a cloudy day in August and wanted to see it again on a nicer day.
Even a rest stop is beautiful in autumn. We pulled over at this one just outside Knife River because a sign advertised a historical marker, which noted that the four-lane divided part of Highway 61 is called the Arthur V. Rohweder Memorial Highway.
It was at this point that Bill decided to take over the driving responsibility. I think he had had enough “detours” – though we had already planned to stop in Knife River anyway for the Great Lakes Candy Company. We picked up caramels, chocolate-covered toffee, and sponge candy.
Only in Minnesota: a sign advertising a fishcake supper.
We took the scenic half of highway 61 after Knife River. There are many pulloff areas for viewing Lake Superior. Just north of Duluth, we saw a barge.
Our last stop of the trip was at the Thomson Hill Information Center, a rest stop on the south end of Duluth, where we saw the barge heading toward the lift bridge.
The last five years for the Minnesota Lynx: four WNBA Finals appearances, three trophies. A week ago, the Lynx won the title at home for the first time.
Boxscore from Game 5 of the 2015 WNBA Finals at Target Center.
Since the first Lynx game on June 12, 1999, I have seen most of the team’s home games. I was in the right place at the right time when the team joined the WNBA in 1999 and they needed workers for their gameday stats crew. My three-person team records all of the shots, rebounds, assists, steals, fouls, and so on to create the official boxscore. My younger sister, Ellen, joined our crew in 2008. While I’ve cut back to working only half of the games for the last two seasons, I’ve enjoyed working with the team from a courtside seat for 17 seasons – but of course, winning is much more fun than losing.
Before 2011, the Lynx had varying degrees of success: they finished just under .500 their first two seasons, then much worse the next two years; they reached the playoffs in 2003 and 2004, with a come-from-behind win in their first playoff game, but still exited in the first round both seasons and then missed the playoffs the next six years. It took awhile, but the team’s luck started to change.
The Lynx won the draft lottery in 2006 and picked Seimone Augustus, the college player of the year. Then in 2010 came a new coach, a trade for hometown favorite Lindsay Whalen, and the addition of veteran Rebekkah Brunson, who had already won one WNBA title. The following year the Lynx added Maya Moore, who had won two championships in college and eventually earned WNBA Rookie of the Year honors, and center Taj McWilliams-Franklin, a six-time WNBA all-star who had also already won a championship.
2011: The Lynx set a franchise record with 27 regular-season wins and recorded their first playoff series win, then their second. Then their third. The deciding game of the Finals was in Atlanta, so we watched it in my sister’s apartment. A few days later, the team held a parade in Minneapolis, with fans lining the streets several rows deep (enough that I could barely see the players) and filling up the skyways.
The fans then filed into Target Center for a championship rally:
2012: The Lynx won their first 10 games and finished with 27 wins again. They earned a return trip to the Finals, falling to Indiana in four games despite having homecourt advantage.
2013: Minnesota added a new center, another hometown favorite, Janel McCarville. Forward Devereaux Peters had joined the year before. The Lynx swept all three rounds of the playoffs. In the Finals: same opponent as in 2011, same three-game sweep.
The Riverview Theater in Minneapolis showed Game 3, and my sister and I attended with hundreds of excited fans:
We hung out with Mary Tyler Moore (the statue) at the parade. That was the year Katy Perry’s “Roar” was so popular, and it became the team’s anthem. (I wished they would have changed the lyrics to “I’ve got the eye of the LYNX … and I am a champion” – but I suppose there were legal reasons why they didn’t.)
Another post-parade rally:
2014: The Lynx finished the regular season second in the Western Conference and lost in the conference finals to the eventual champions. Moore was named the league MVP.
2015: The addition of guards Anna Cruz and former Lynx Renee Montgomery helped when Augustus and Whalen were injured. A midseason trade brought center Sylvia Fowles. The team struggled in the second half of the regular season but gained momentum heading into the playoffs, setting up a Finals rematch against the Fever, the only team to beat the Lynx in the championship. I missed game 1 due to a poorly timed (by myself) weekend vacation, and Indiana stole home court with a win. I was back for Game 2, which the Lynx won.
Game 3 in Indiana was a classic. The series was tied 1-1, and the game was tied 77-77 with 1.7 seconds to go:
With that buzzer-beater, the Lynx regained homecourt advantage. They could win the series in Indiana in Game 4, or return to Minnesota if they lost. Ellen and I drove to Indianapolis to watch Game 4 as fans. Their arena has a scoreboard that seemed to be as big as the court, as well as a banner celebrating their 2012 championship (when they beat the Lynx).
Ten thousand fans tried to distract Whalen during a free throw.
The highlight of that game for me was the return of Red Panda, the halftime entertainer. She’s an acrobat who balances bowls on her foot, then flips them into a stack on her head – while wearing heels and riding a unicycle. And whenever she successfully flips the bowls – which is every time – she seems surprised that it worked. She is the unanimous favorite halftime act of my group of friends, but we were all sad when she had to retire about a year ago due to injuries. The Fever apparently convinced her to return.
It would have been fun to see the Lynx win there – but when they didn’t win, it set up a deciding Game 5 at Target Center in Minneapolis.
It was a slow first half for both teams. In the third quarter the Lynx broke away. Indiana made a run in the fourth quarter, but the Lynx lead was too big.
The 2015 parade was on a Friday morning. Luckily, my sister and I already had the day off. Too bad it couldn’t have been held on a Saturday so more fans could attend.
A third championship rally:
The Lynx have many All-Stars, many Olympians, many people who are able to score. They’ve won championships with three different centers – and three different Finals MVPs: Augustus in 2011, Moore in 2013, and Fowles in 2015. The Lynx are approachable and likeable, even dancing with fans after home wins.
My favorite of my photos from this year is of the team receiving the trophy. I once read advice to stand behind people who are posing for a photo because “that’s where the love is.” The teamwork shows in this picture.
Add the Lynx to the six-time national champion University of Minnesota women’s hockey team, top-10 Gopher volleyball, and seven-time Division II volleyball champs Concordia, and it’s a pretty fun time to be a fan of Twin Cities women’s sports.
87 Counties 